A Dash of Terroir: The Story of Xroads Philippine Sea Salts
In conversation with Lennie Buenaflor DiCarlo
There’s a story in every grain of salt. That’s something Lennie Buenaflor DiCarlo, founder of Xroads Philippine Sea Salts™, has come to embrace. What started as a simple gift transformed into a deep appreciation for the craft of traditional salt farming and a mission to bring these unique flavors to the world.
I first discovered their salt years ago at a food event in San Francisco. I still have some of that first bag. I rediscovered their growing product line at the New York Fancy Food Show in 2023.
A Serendipitous Beginning
Lennie’s journey into salt was never part of her original plan. A former financial analyst, she made a career pivot into the culinary world, training at Cordon Bleu and hoping to work in spa cuisine. However, a visit to the Philippines to check in on her mother changed her path.
“I never knew that whenever we went to visit, the salt was right there,” Lennie recalls. “The province my mom grew up in literally translates to ‘where the salt is from.’”
That realization sparked an idea. She brought back a gallon-sized bag of local salt to share with chef friends in the Bay Area. The response? “They all said, ‘This is really great salt. Can we get more?’ And that’s when I realized I could do something here.”
The Egg That Stole the Show
One of Xroads’ most distinctive offerings is the salt egg “asin-tibuok”—a striking, mineral-rich block that resembles an ancient artifact. Coconut husks are soaked in seawater for several months, absorbing sea minerals. The husks are chopped and sun-dried before slowly burnt for several days with local hardwoods, creating a coconut charcoal ash combination. The activated charcoal is used to filter seawater, which is poured and roasted in clay pot,s slowly forming a solid salt dome. The result is an alkaline salt with a pH of 8.84.”
For chefs, it’s a revelation. A quarter teaspoon is enough to enhance a dish, and its mineral complexity makes it a showstopper. “One chef in Las Vegas adds a $25 upcharge just for a tableside shaving of the egg on a dish, and people go for it.”
Pro tip: Do not try to put a large “egg” of salt in your carry-on. You will be searched.
A Commitment to Craft
The XRoads team works directly with small-scale farmers in the Philippines, supporting traditional, labor-intensive salt-making methods that have been passed down for generations. “There’s only one family left in all 7,000 islands making asin-tibuok,” she explains. “They’ve been approached many times about automation, but they’ve said no. And I told them, if you do that, I can’t continue to work with you. People want a product that’s done by hand, with care, preserving a craft.”
Lennie doesn’t just see herself as an importer—she’s a bridge between the farmers and those who appreciate their craft. “I call the people I work with my partners because we are. I don’t negotiate prices; I pay what they ask. The real cost isn’t the salt—it’s getting it to the US.”
That dedication has paid off. Xroads salts are used by top chefs and sold to those who value the integrity of their ingredients. And while Lennie’s work has always been about quality first, she acknowledges that it has grown into something larger. “This was supposed to be my passion project,” she says. “But now, it’s become a movement.”
This commitment to tradition extends to how the salts are harvested. Unlike industrially produced salt, Xroads’ varieties are deeply connected to their terroir—just like wine. From Ilocano Asin, with its high magnesium content, to Supo Asin, known for its delicate pink hue, every variety tells a story about the land and the people who make it.
More Than Just Salt
Beyond its culinary applications, Xroads salts carry cultural and historical significance. Some varieties are made using centuries-old techniques, like those from the island of Guimaras, where salt is filtered through driftwood that has been soaking in seawater for years. In a final, mysterious step, a splash of coconut milk is added—an unexplained tradition passed down for generations. “No one knows why,” Lennie says. “Every answer I get is ‘Because Grandpa did it.’” We can't wait to get our hands on this delicate salt for the shop. When I met Lennie she shared a taste of this marble-like block, and the almost creamy mouthfeel was amazing.
The Future of Flavor
At A Dash Of, we believe in telling the stories behind the salts we carry. Every brand we work with is rooted in a deep respect for ingredients, terroir, and tradition. Xroads Philippine Sea Salts is a perfect example of that philosophy—a reminder that even the smallest ingredient in our kitchen can hold the biggest stories.